Warning: this is the longest post I’ve written thus far… and one of my favorite adventures!
One of my first adventures during my trip to Wakayama was meeting up with a group who study and protect sea turtles. Well, this group and this particular beach were one of the top reasons I chose to visit Wakayama. I had learned that this location was one of the best places in Japan to observe sea turtles during nesting season.
If you know me, you probably know that I love sea turtles! In North Carolina, I volunteered with an organization that monitored the nesting and hatching of sea turtles. I walked a section of Atlantic Beach at sunrise every Saturday morning for one nesting season looking for turtle tracks so that we could mark and protect the nests. I also had the opportunity to nest sit at night waiting for the babies to hatch. One of my most favorite experiences in North Carolina was when a nest hatched and I got to see the babies heading to the ocean. Of course it was at night and I wasn’t able to take photos (all lights have to off), but it was amazing!
So when I found a couple of opportunities to possibly see sea turtles in Japan, I was thrilled. I tried to fill out the online application for this group in Wakayama, but the link was not active because of Covid. So, I scrolled down, found a phone number, and was lucky enough to be on the phone with someone who spoke English. She helped me get into contact with Kuziki who is the supervisor of the Sea Turtle Protection Organization in Minabe.
I explained my interest and he gave me his number so I could call him when I got to the area. I checked into my hotel, which was quite nice with lovely views. I chose this hotel because it was close to the sea turtle organization’s base.
Then I called Kuziki. He offered to pick me up at the hotel at 8 pm since the roads to their base were very small and winding. I agreed, hung the phone, and immediately began to second guess my decision. I had just agreed to meet a complete stranger in a hotel lobby, after dark, in an unknown city, in a foreign country, get into his car, and ride down small, winding roads to a secluded location. Had I lost my mind? Then I reasoned with myself that he works for the board of education, I had contacted him, and this is one of the safest countries in the world. I texted my location and his contact information to my sister in case I disappeared and decided to go. (Disclaimer: I am not recommending that anyone else does this, because it could have been a really stupid choice.)
Kuziki showed up precisely at 8:00 (Japanese people are typically very punctual). I instantly felt at ease. He explained to me that he didn’t speak English very well and asked me to speak slowly and use small words. I quickly forgot all about his request as we began what would turn into a two conversation in English.
We got into his very tiny car and drove less than five minutes down what looked like an overgrown path into the darkness. I was thankful that I was not trying to drive my much larger rental car down this so called road. When we arrived at the base, I was surprised to be greeted by four college students who were staying at the base for three weeks as part of their studies. Kuziki introduced me and we chatted about sea turtles… the kinds that nest in Japan, how they collect data, their organization’s efforts, and how that compared with my experiences in America.
At 9:00 pm, a group of four community volunteers showed up from their shift of walking the beaches and Kuziki asked me if I wanted to walk the beach. I enthusiastically said yes and we set out into the darkness with two small flashlights with red tape over the lights to dim the brightness. This must have been one of the darkest nights I have experienced. The thick clouds completely covered the moon and there was not a single star visible in the sky or a single light on this long stretch of beach. We only used the flashlights to get down the rocky path to the beach and then turned them off. For me, it was like being in a sensory deprivation room as I had no idea what each step would bring. After my eyes became somewhat adjusted, I just followed his white shirt through the thick sand as my feet sank ankle deep with each step.
As we walked along I began to see bio-luminescent plankton along the edge of the water. This was a first for me and I was just amazed to see them. We walked to the end of a cove and then sat in the sand watching the barely visible shoreline for any turtles coming ashore. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see a turtle nesting. Kuziki told me that now that I know where the beach is, I am welcome to come back on my own.
I learned that the nesting had been much lower so far during this season as compared to previous years and that this was being seen in other parts of the Pacific as well. The total number of nest at that point on this beach was 18. Three years ago there had been 120 nests, so a really big decline.
At 10:00, he drove me back to the hotel. I reflected on his initial statement about his limited English and how we had just talked nonstop for two hours like old friends. I think he severely underestimated his level of English. I thanked him for allowing me this opportunity and left with a memory I won’t soon forget. The kindness of Kuziki and the group had reinforced my opinion of the Japanese people collectively – very welcoming, kind, and respectful.
The next day I drove through Minabe, which seemed to be a quiet little town that I basically used it as a home base for day trips out to a few other sights. When planning this trip, I had researched each new prefecture I planned to visit and picked just a few things to try to see in each one. This turned out to be really difficult for me to stick to, because my natural inclination it to just explore and see what I find. I did walk the beach a couple more times before I left with no luck, but it was delightfully peaceful due to it’s seclusion.
On the way out one morning I noticed these statues at a little park on the side of the road near my hotel, so I stopped to investigate. It was on a little hill overlooking the town. There were quite a few different statues, but I particularly liked the cats! The large female statue (my head was about level with her feet) looked as if she might be holding plum blossoms. I’m sure she is watching over and protecting the city.
Minabe is famous for their plums, so of course I picked up some plum wine! I’m sure the city would be spectacular during plum season! “Minabe is said to offer a view of a million plum trees and produce an aroma that fills the air for miles.” There are things to see in this town that I didn’t get to due to my time constraints like plum related cooking classes and fishing tours. I would love to come back in the spring and spend more time!
Happy Travels! Kari
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