Well, I have officially started the Shikoku Pilgrimage. You do not have to be Buddhist to do the pilgrimage and I think everyone who decides to do a pilgrimage does it for their own individual reasons. (P.S. – I’m only squinting from the sun and am not in pain. Haha)
What is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
The Shikoku Pilgrimage (also known as the 88-Temple Pilgrimage or the Shikoku Henro) is a pilgrimage around the island of Shikoku. It is one of the few circular pilgrimages in the world. As an “o-henro-san”, you visit 88 specific temples and sacred sites where Kukai (Kobo Daishi) is believed to have spent time or trained during the 9th Century.
I stumbled upon this pilgrimage when I was looking for the Kumano Kodo (another pilgrimage in Japan) and one of two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes along with the Camino de Santiao (which I have been interested in doing for a few years now). And yes, I know that I really need to get going because I have so many things that I would like to do in my lifetime. Mount Fuji is on that list too!
The 88-temple pilgrimage is a route around the island of Shikoku following the believed path of Kukai, who was given the name Kobo Daishi posthumously. Kukai was born on Shiikoku in the year 774 at temple number 75, Zentsuji Temple. He is the founder of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism in Japan.
The island of Shikoku is the second smallest island of the five islands that make up mainland Japan. The pilgrimage route is about 745 miles. Traditionally, you would walk the entire pilgrimage which takes about two months. In modern times, most people do not have the time to walk and it is common to drive or use other modes of transportation, although many people do still walk. My plan is to complete it in sections and to use a combination of walking and driving. I have completed 23 temples as of my writing. The route involves a lot of road walking which is hard on your feet! I started the pilgrimage at the end of May and it was already hot, so summer will be sweltering.
Clothing of a Pilgrim
There are traditional things that pilgrims wear. I currently have three pieces – a Hakue (a white vest or jacket), a Suge Gasa (a conical bamboo hat), and an Okesa (a fabric that is worn sort of like a scarf). There are other items that I may or may not add.
The O’Henro-san (Pilgrim) Store
Temple #1 – Ryozenji Temple in Naruto, Tokushima
When you arrive at temple #1, there is a store where you can purchase supplies for becoming a pilgrim. There is a guidebook printed in English that has all of the information you need along with maps, information about lodging, etc. I found out along the first part of my journey that some of the other temples also sell supplies and sometimes with a little more variety. There are also a couple of stores near other temples with additional things you may need or want. It is not necessary to wear the clothing, but I decided to start with a few things.
Nio Gate at Ryozenji
You usually enter a temple complex through a Nio Gate. The two statues on the sides of the entrance are the Nio guardians believed to protect the temple.
The Temple Grounds
Ryozenji Temple was founded in the 8th century, but has burned down more than once. Most of the current structures at Ryozenji date from 1964. Ryozenji has served as the first temple on the pilgrimage since the year 1687.
Ryozenji is beautiful and feels very spiritual. I love the candles, the lanterns, and the smell of incense floating through the air. As a pilgrim, when you visit the main hall and the daishi hall there are things that you typically do. It is customary to place your nameslip and copied sutra in the appropriate box, light three sticks of incense and one candle, place a donation in the offertory box, stand to the left, put your hands together, and recite the sutras. Since I don’t know the sutras, I love when I have an opportunity to hear them being recited.
Goshuin Stamps
Goshuin are stamps that can be collected in a special book when visiting Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines. At temples, they are created by monks who first stamp a design on the page, then they write the temple’s name, the date, and sometimes other messages in calligraphy with ink. After they are allowed to dry, a thin piece of paper is placed over it to soak up any excess ink. They are like small, beautiful works of art!
A Few More Photos From Ryozenji Temple
Ryozenji Temple is a busy place with many pilgrims coming and going. Most of the people that I saw appeared to be Japanese nationals. One curious individual asked where I was from and wanted to visit briefly.
I really enjoy visiting temples and shrines and find each one to be unique and special. I couldn’t tell you how many I have visited since coming to Japan, but after temple #1 on the Shikoku Henro, I know I have at least 87 more to go to complete this pilgrimage.
Rozenji is located in Naruto in Tokushima prefecture on the island of Shikoku. Tokushima is a beautiful and varied prefecture with coastal areas, mountains, and some of the most beautiful rivers I have seen. There are many things to do in the area such as: learn the ancient art of indigo dyeing, see an Awa Odori Dance, shop for otani-yaki pottery, cross the Vine Bridges of Iya Valley, see the Naruto Whirlpools, visit a castle, visit an art or history museum, and the list goes on…
Pin for Ryozenji Temple here.
Happy exploring…. Kari
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